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5 things to do in Buenos Aires (and the right addresses like a true porteño)

The first thing to do is arrive Buenos Aireshaving found a way to exchange Euros with dollar blue (worth three times the official currency), gets used to the different course of time. Because the real ones porteños, “those from the port”, “those who come from the boats” and who have been in Buenos Aires for many generations and carry with them the nostalgia for distant lands and the proud consciousness of having survived the separation, masters of a place they consider because of the exceptional own property, they allow no exceptions. IN Capital as they call it, you go to dinner after 22:00 and party while there is time, and in the morning the boulevards are deserted before 9:00. If you ask a taxi driver how long he has to his destination, or how long to wait to give a table to the girl who presides over the entrance of a restaurant, the answer will always be the same: “Cuarenta minutis”. Like a huge cetacean – and nothing represents Baires better from Balena Azulthe majestic concert hall suspended in the Kirchner Cultural Center – the metropolis struggles to get fuel during the day, but when the engine picks up speed, it is a simultaneous explosion of energy, sensuality, passion, electricity that has learned to mock the news of a declared crisis.

Getting around by taxi is an excellent (and also economical) way to get around the capital. Dr. Gabriele Nava

1. Dancing tango in San Telmo? La Feira de Mataderos is better

On Sunday afternoon you will be advised to go to San Telmo, the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires, because it is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the atmosphere of Argentine tango. The famous one Feria de San Telmo turns the streets into a market for antiques and Dorego Plaza you will surely find an outdoor tango show (get ready because when you confess to tangueros if you are Italian, you will be invited to dance a demonstration tarantella in front of spectators of all nationalities). For a stopover, it’s best to avoid corners crowded with tourists San Telmo Market (porteños go there during the week to buy fruits and vegetables) and takes refuge in the neighbor a British lawyer (Av. Brasil 399) where you can try Vacío a la parrilla with mixed salad and criola sauce, or from El Hippopotamo (Avenida Brasil A 401) for a lomo locket, or maybe yes Pulperia Quilapán (Defensa 1344) or at café del MAMBA, Museo de Arte Moderno (Av. San Juan 350). The real porteño, however, on Sundays – strictly after 11 am – goes to the folkloristic salon Feria de Mataderos in the barrio of the same name to the west, where – next to the stalls of Feria de las Artesanías y Tradiciones Populares Argentinas who sell everything from fine silverware to partner sets to ponchos to blankets to shapes (gaucho knives) and leather goods – you’ll find an outdoor barbecue, free workshops and shows tango and milonga with the enthusiastic participation of local residents.

One of the historic cafes in the San Telmo district.  Dr. Gariele Nava

One of the historic cafes in the San Telmo district. Dr. Gariele Nava

2. Try an Argentinian asado in Palermo

Argentina is famous for its asado, the traditional South American barbecue. For dinner (never before 22:00) taxi is a must the modern district of Palermo (they cost very little and you stop them with a nod if they have a lit LIBRE sign: they will confirm the trip by flashing your headlights) where you can find in the vicinity of Plaza Serrano one of the many restaurants specializing in grills: order a delicious piece of meat accompanied by chimichurri, sauces and typical garnishes. If you book from Don Julio (Guatemala 4699) will be almost impossible, mark yourself El Favorite by the same owner (Jorge Luis Borges 2108) or La Cabrera (Jose A. Cabrera 5127) o Lo de Jesus (Gurruchaga 1406). When you arrive you will be asked to leave your name and come back after the fateful forty minutes, but for a porteño this is not a problem: there is always a bar nearby where you can drink a cocktail (Tres Monos, Guatemala 4899) or if you wait in line, they’ll offer you a gin and tonic and an empanada to make the wait more pleasant. The night has just begun anyway Palermo Soho we dance in the rooms of social clubs (tango a Villa MalcolmAvenida Córdoba 5064 and milonga a VirutaArmenia 1366) and young porteños party in the cerveceria until morning (Baum PalermoJose A. Cabrera 4427).

Source: VanityFair

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