The rugged profile and the presence of steep, green mountains next to the sea characterize the northern coast of Spain and offer views as breathtaking as those of this viewpoint of Cantabria. The route to the Devil’s Eyes It is a route of just over 7 kilometers near Sonabia, on the coast of the municipalities of Liendo and Castro Urdiales and whose main attraction is a curious natural arch. The wonderful panorama requires a well-deserved effort in return, this route is not a walk and requires a certain hiking experience.

Nestled in the heart of Cantabria, the picturesque town of Bárcena Mayor stands as a unique jewel in the mountainous landscape of the region.  This small population center, immersed in the sublime Saja Besaya Natural Park, transports us to an enchanted world where tradition and nature converge in perfect harmony.  A magical paradise in the north of Spain.

One of the most beautiful towns in Cantabria: mountain mansions in a village between rivers

Itinerary of the route to the Devil’s Eyes

The route to the Devil’s Eyes and the peaks of Solpico and Candina consists of 7.34 kilometersis circularhas a estimated duration of four hours and one moderate difficulty. It is not a walking route, as it has sections where you have to climb a little, the surface is not flat and has many loose stones. However, there is a point on the route where We can ignore the peaks and go directly to the Devil’s Eyes arch.

The route starts in in the Sonabia parking. From there we descend to Valdearenas beach, cross it and leave it on the right in the direction of the mountain. It is a climb with a sand path at the beginning and then from land marked at some points with black arrows. It is a steep climb and there will be narrowing points where we will surely use our hands to hold on.

We will arrive at a higher and flatter area where we can appreciate Santoña and the Faro del Caballo. In this point You can choose to go directly to the Devil’s Eyes taking the path to the left or choose to climb the peak of Solpico and the summit of Candina taking the right path. If we want to reach the main attraction of this route, the Devil’s Eyes, we must take the path to the left until we find the large stone arch overlooking the sea. We will return along that path and where we came to reach the beach again.

Sonabia or Valdearenas beach, in the background a mountain crowned by the Ojos del Diablo natural arch (Cantabria).
Sonabia or Valdearenas beach, in the background the mountain crowned by the Ojos del Diablo natural arch (Cantabria).

If we choose the second option, that is, touring the peaks of Solpico and Candina, we will face a more rugged and dizzying route.. Once we have chosen the right path after climbing from the beach, we will walk along a flat path until we reach a narrowing with a rope on the mountain wall as a railing. After this narrow section we will take the detour that marks to the left and we will follow the red and white GR markings and red and white dots. If we see a dog tag between the rocks it will mean that we are at the top of Solpico.

To head to the top of Candina we must walk the ridges of Solpico, always following the red and white marks until you reach a path that runs along the mountain. There will come a time when we will have to turn left instead of following straight to go to the Candina summit. Once you reach Candina, you have to retrace that detour to reach the path that bordered the mountain and we will follow the white and red dots even to a marked path that will take us to the Devil’s Eyes.

Bison in the Altamira cave, cave painting.

Altamira and rock art in Cantabria: the Sistine Chapel of Paleolithic art

We enjoy the viewpoint and begin the descent to the car following the path that borders the mountain with black and pink arrows. We will arrive at the starting point where we choose to go directly to the Devil’s Eyes or choose the complete route that passes through the peaks. Now it’s a matter of going down that steep climb until we reach the beach at the beginning and then to the parking lot, or if time permits, take a swim after the walk.

Near the route to the Devil’s Eyes

In the surroundings of this natural viewpoint is the small beach town of Sonabia and that of Oriñón. The latter has a campsite in front of the beach of the same name. 15 minutes by car to the west we will find Laredo and another 15 minutes but towards the west we can go to Castro Urdiales.

Motorhome on the coast.

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